Driven’s Carb Defender Small Engine additive cleans carburetors from Ethanol-fuel-related deposits that cause poor performance. It is specially formulated for the needs of carbureted motorcycles, ATVs, watercraft, lawn equipment and other gasoline-powered small-engine vehicles that spend most of their life in storage. Carb Defender’s unique blend features additives that control combustion chamber residue, plus clean and protect surfaces of the fuel system and intake tract. It also restores engine performance and stabilizes fuel during off-season storage. The multi-function formula eliminates the need for multiple additives and one packet treats up to five gallons of fuel.
1: How often should I change my oil?
Quite simply – it depends. This certainly isn’t the ideal answer, but it is the most honest one. Temperature plays a major role in the frequency of necessary oil change intervals. Every 20°F increase in oil temperature beyond 220°F shortens the life of the oil by 50%. This means cars that run very high oil temps will have much shorter oil life than cars that have moderate oil temperatures. Interestingly, the same also goes for low temps. It may be surprising, but low oil temperatures (below 180°F) can also shorten oil life. In fact, low 120°F oil temps pose greater risks to your engine than 260°F oil temperatures do. The reason is because low oil temps allow more moisture and fuel dilution to build up in your engine.
Street rods that see many miles of highway driving at moderate oil temperatures can expect to go up to 5,000 miles between oil changes.
Owners of street rods that only see short-trip driving should change their oil every 3,000 miles, or at least once a year. It is important to always change the oil in the fall before you put your street rod away for winter storage. You want to drain all the moisture, fuel dilution and used oil out of the engine before you stop driving for the season. Make sure the crankcase has been refilled with fresh oil, and then you are good to go when the weather warms up in the spring. The oil will not go bad just sitting in your crankcase over the winter.
2: Do I need break-in oil, and how long do you use break-in oil?
While every engine can benefit from break-in oil, it is a must for flat tappet camshaft engines. Even roller cam engines benefit from break-in oil because the piston rings still need to break in, and a better, faster ring break-in means more power and less fuel dilution in the motor oil.
Driven recommends changing the break-in oil after 30 minutes if you have a flat tappet engine. You will then need to refill with break-in oil for the next 500 miles. After both the initial break-in and 500 miles of driving, you can then use an oil made specifically for flat tappet engines.
For non-flat-tappet engines, we recommend running the break-in oil for 500 miles. After that time you can install whichever oil you prefer.
3: What viscosity oil should I run?
The “technical” answer is to use the lowest viscosity possible for the engine bearing clearances, oil temperature and horsepower output. Most people don’t know all of this information though, so the “practical” way to determine the correct viscosity is to do one of the following:
1—Run as low a viscosity as will yield 25 to 30 psi oil pressure at idle when the engine is warmed up. This is more oil pressure than the engine needs, but it is not excessive. Oil pressure is one of those areas where moderation rules. Too much or too little is not good. You need moderation in oil pressure to prevent engine damage.
2—Use one viscosity grade lower synthetic oil than you currently run if you utilize conventional oil. This gives you the same high-temp protection as your conventional oil, but you gain all the benefits of a synthetic. For example, a street rod running conventional 20W-50 motor oil can safely switch to a synthetic 10W-40 and actually improve the protection of the engine.
4: Do I need to do anything special for winter storage?
Using an oil with storage protection additives is recommended. Some motor oils have extra rust and corrosion inhibitor additives that make them better suited for wintertime. Also, it is important to change the oil before you put your street rod away for the winter. You don’t want to store the engine on used motor oil. Fresh oil with extra corrosion inhibitors provides excellent winter storage.
5: Do I need to use a “high Zinc” oil after break-in?
You do if you have a flat tappet cam or very high valve spring pressures on a roller cam. Flat tappet and aggressive roller cam engines require higher levels of ZDDP than modern, stock engines from the factory. As a result, these engines need a steady diet of high Zinc oils.
We know this is a lot of information with lots of variables to take into account to protect your vehicle’s engine. Fortunately, Driven Racing Oil is a one-stop shop for everything from break-in oils to high Zinc motor oils with extra rust and corrosion inhibitors. We can provide everything you need to keep your muscle car or street rod engine running in peak form.
Huntersville, NC– Designed for carbureted engines that use Methanol, E85 or Oxygenated race fuel, Driven’s Carb Defender™Race Concentrate prevents corrosion and deposits in the fuel system and intake tract.
Driven’s Carb Defender Race Concentrate delivers specially formulated additives that protect against carburetor corrosion and induction deposits. Special corrosion inhibitors work to prevent damage and diminished performance caused by fuels containing Methanol and Ethanol, as well as the moisture these fuels attract. This powerful new additive controls combustion chamber residue, plus cleans and protects surfaces of the fuel system and intake tract. Carb Defender Race Concentrate also contains a multi-functional lubricant so “top lubes” are not required. Just one bottle of additive treats up to 55 gallons of fuel, and the bottle features a handy view strip to let users measure out doses for as little as five gallons of gas. Driven Racing Oil™ Carb Defender Race Concentrate works with Methanol, E85 and race fuels, and it is compatible with spec fuel and water tests.
Driven Racing Oil™ will be featured as part of a technical seminar examining the rust and corrosion problems Ethanol can create in carburetors during this year’s SEMA Show in Las Vegas.
Over 90% of pump fuel contains at least some Ethanol, and the EPA has recently raised pump fuel’s allowed level of Ethanol from 10% (E10) to 15% (E15). These changes have serious consequences for carbureted engines. Modern vehicles are equipped with fuel injection, and current fuel standard tests deal with issues related to these modern fuel systems. However, carburetors in cars, trucks and motorcycles that are rarely driven face issues with Ethanol-blended fuels that current pump fuel standards do not address. This session provides information related to the use of Ethanol-blended fuels in carbureted power plants. Scheduled to take place at 2:00 p.m. on Tuesday, November 5th in room N262, the seminar is entitled “Ethanol’s Effect – What E10 up to E85 Does to Carburetors.” Speakers include Lake Speed Jr., Certified Lubrication Specialist at Driven Racing Oil, and Michael Miller from Technical Services at Sunoco Race Fuels. As part of the seminar Speed will talk about the rust and corrosion that Ethanol can cause in carburetors, and will discuss the benefits of Driven’s new Carb Defender™ Fuel Additive.
Get Ready For Winter
Three great tips to protect your car while it is stuck in storage for the winter
By Jeff Huneycutt
When whoever it was first uttered the words, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” odds are they probably weren’t thinking about hot rods, muscle cars or classics. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t true for our favorite four-wheeled toys.
Prevention is especially important for our prized hot rods because they can’t heal themselves. Sure, you can always replace a cracked windshield or repaint a scratched fender, but lots of components for older cars just aren’t available anymore and repairs cost time and money. We don’t know about ounces or pounds, but when it comes to cars prevention is always cheaper than repair, so perhaps the saying should be changed a bit. Maybe “a couple bucks spent on prevention is worth hundreds (or even thousands) in repairs.” There, that’s it.
This is definitely true when it comes to the damage that can occur to your car when it is allowed to sit for any extended period of time. And now that the seasons are changing and car enthusiasts in the northern half of the country are trying to enjoy their final few weekends before the white stuff starts falling, we thought we’d share a few great tips to help winterize your favorite car or truck. Heck, these winterizing tips are also great for your boat, motorcycle and RV.
Winterizing your car should involve just a little more than throwing a cover over the vehicle and locking the garage door. Thankfully, however, it really isn’t much tougher than that. The key to winterizing any vehicle is to keep the fluids it depends on from attacking it while it sits. That means you should deal with the fuel, the motor oil and the coolant before parking your car for the winter so that it runs just as well as you remember when you fire it back up next spring.
“I hear people say all the time that they put fresh oil in their car when they pull it out after the winter, but that’s the wrong time to do it,” explains Driven Racing Oil’s Lake Speed Jr. “It is so much better for your car to have fresh oil in the engine when you put it away for the winter.
“Old oil that has been in your car for a while contains combustion by-products, and those aren’t good for your engine,” he continues. “That (oil) includes bits of carbon, fuel and water, and those contaminants create acids that corrode your engine during storage. The longer it is stored, the more opportunity the acid has to corrode your engine from the inside out.”
Obviously, the best way to keep any acid from forming and harming your engine’s internals is not to have those contaminants in the oil. That’s why you want to drain the old oil and replace it with fresh, clean oil right before you put the car away for the winter. Just make sure to run the engine for a few minutes after changing the oil to make sure you have that fresh oil inside all the engine’s oil galleries and not just sitting in the bottom of the pan.
The motor oil you choose can also help keep your car in a healthy state throughout the long winter months. Besides their excellent lubrication qualities, Driven’s Hot Rod Oils actually contain better rust inhibitors than any other widely available motor oil. The package Driven uses was originally developed for use by the U.S. military for its vehicles, which often have to sit for extended periods but still be ready for rapid deployment. When it is time for action, the Army doesn’t have time to do a bunch of engine rebuilds, so if this additive package can prevent rust over extended periods in some of the worst conditions imaginable, you can imagine the excellent job it will do with your Camaro.
In addition, Driven’s HR Oils also have more Zinc (or ZDDP) than most other oils. Zinc is primarily used to protect the mating surfaces between the camshaft and flat tappet lifters by creating a sacrificial barrier that keeps the metal components from grinding themselves up. But that barrier also blocks air and oxygen from getting to the metal and the oxidation process cannot begin to create damaging rust. Plus, even if most of the oil has drained back into the pan over the winter, that protective coating left by the zinc will help keep your valuable engine components from eating themselves up until the oil pump is able to push fresh oil everywhere it needs to be.
These days, practically all gasoline blends contain some percentage of Ethanol. Ethanol is a form of alcohol which can actually draw moisture out of the air and into the fuel. While a car is in storage, moisture can build up in the fuel and corrode the metal in the carburetor, fuel pump and tank. Plus, the alcohol can dry out gaskets, the fuel pump diaphragm and rubber fuel lines, causing them to break down and leak faster.
Driven Racing Oil’s Carb Defender is a new product designed specifically to fight the harmful characteristics of Ethanol. Unlike most other products on the market, Carb Defender doesn’t try to chemically change the fuel—which can affect performance—instead, it creates a microscopic coating on everything in the fuel system to keep both the Ethanol and moisture from being able to do any damage. Plus, Carb Defender lubricates all the non-metallic components to keep them from drying out and cracking.
Carb Defender simply needs to be added to the fuel tank during a fill-up. It’s beneficial to any car when used on a regular basis, but it is also especially helpful as a winterizer. Just add a bottle to the last couple of tanks of fuel before the end of the driving season and your fuel system is protected all winter long. Read More About Ethanol Corrosion
In addition to using Carb Defender, you can also limit the amount of moisture that builds up in your fuel over the winter by storing your car with the tank completely topped off. This may seem counter-intuitive at first, but it works. By filling your tank absolutely full, that pushes out any air in the tank. The fuel tank is vented, so there is no way to completely get rid of contact with the atmosphere, but since the fuel is all the way up to the filler tube that means the fuel’s contact area with the atmosphere is a couple of square inches, instead of two or three square feet when the tank is only half full.
Have you ever wondered where all that sludge comes from when you drain the coolant from an engine block or radiator that’s been in there a little too long?
It’s from the water that you put into the radiator (usually in a 50/50 ratio with antifreeze) to protect your engine from overheating. That may be shocking to hear, especially since you probably drink water from the same tap that you used to fill your coolant system. But the sludge isn’t in your water, it is the product of a chemical reaction between minerals like calcium, sodium and magnesium that are common in tap water, and the metal in your engine block. Over time the chemical reaction creates not only that tell-tale sludge buildup, but also damaging corrosion inside the block that cannot be repaired.
“The purity and quality of water varies massively,” Speed says. “When you have dissimilar metals in the water and the engine block, it can create corrosion. That’s why we created CSP, which stands for Coolant System Protector, to protect cars from this problem. CSP uses a chemical called a chelant which basically functions as molecular police. The chelant bonds with the metals in the water, rendering them inert, or basically handcuffing them so that they cannot be the conductors for corrosion.”
Running CSP year round is a good idea, but if you are currently only running a blend of antifreeze and water it isn’t too late. Even if you don’t have the time, or the energy, to drain and flush your coolant system before putting your car away for the winter, just add a bottle of CSP and run the engine for a few minutes to thoroughly mix it with the coolant. Read Coolant System Tech Bulletin
By looking after these three areas and spending a few bucks on Driven products to protect your car or truck, you can save big money on repair bills down the road. And just as important, you can sleep easy knowing your car will run as well as it ever has after a long winter in storage. Now if there was only a way to keep dead bugs from sticking to your bumper and making their own polka-dot art, all of mankind’s greatest car problems would be solved.
Huntersville, NC –Driven Carb Defender™ is an ultra-concentrated fuel additive that protects your car’s fuel system from damaging Ethanol corrosion during wintertime storage.
Before you put your hot rod in storage for the winter off-season, it’s crucial to make sure it has the correct protection so that it will be in proper running condition when it’s time to take it back out for cruising and show season. Designed for carbureted classic and performance vehicles, Driven Carb Defender™ will save you the hassle of costly post-storage repairs resulting from corrosion that happens at an accelerated pace over the winter due to temperature swings. Because it is specifically formulated to protect against Ethanol corrosion and induction deposits, Driven Carb Defender™ and its special corrosion inhibitors work to counteract the damaging moisture buildup resulting from the hygroscopic characteristics of Ethanol-blended fuel. Over the winter months, the Ethanol in your fuel tank absorbs moisture which if left unprotected will lead to rust, corrosion and other costly problems. In addition, this race-proven additive stabilizes the fuel as well as cleans existing deposits in the combustion chamber. With Driven Carb Defender™, you can rest assured that once it’s Spring and you’re ready to bring your hot rod back out on the road, its performance will remain the same.
Here’s how to free up more horsepower in your engine by finding balance
By Jeff Huneycutt
Honestly, we don’t know much about chi, crystals or any other new-age hokum. But we do know to shut up and listen when the horsepower experts talk. And lately, Driven Racing Oil’sTM Lake Speed Jr. has been talking about how to free up more horsepower by finding “balance” when you build your next engine.
And no, he’s not talking about yoga or meditation–although we’ve heard that’s good for you–instead, he means finding the right combination of parts and preparation to properly seal the combustion chamber floor. When most people think of the combustion chamber in a running engine, they picture the cylinder head and maybe the valves. But that is only the top of the chamber. The chamber floor consists of the top of the piston and the rings. It’s the piston rings which keep combustion pressure from squeezing down the side of the piston between the skirt and the cylinder walls, and the more efficient the rings are at keeping the rapidly expanding combustion gases from escaping the chamber, the more power your engine will make.
It’s a mistake, however, to think that the piston rings do all this by themselves. The rings depend on motor oil splashed up onto the cylinder walls by the rotating crankshaft to provide lubrication where the ring contacts the cylinder wall. Without proper lubrication, friction between the ring and the cylinder wall will cause irreparable damage within a matter of minutes. But the oil also provides a secondary benefit: It actually helps seal any small gaps between the edge of the ring and the cylinder wall, decreasing blow-by and improving horsepower. The oil, in turn, depends on the engine machinist to properly prepare the cylinder bores by honing a series of tiny grooves into the cylinder wall in a crosshatch pattern. It’s this pattern of grooves that actually helps trap a small film of oil so that the cylinder wall isn’t wiped dry every time the piston rings slide past.
“At Driven Racing Oil, we have great relationships with a lot of the top engine builders,” Speed says, “but we also work very closely with some of the top manufacturers such as Total Seal Rings and Sunnen. And by learning from each other, it helps us all understand what is necessary to help an engine make as much power possible while still maintaining great dependability. What is very clear is that the system that seals the combustion chamber from the cylinder is dependent upon several factors. In other words, the piston ring isn’t doing it all by itself, and the oil definitely isn’t doing it all by itself, either. You have to have a balanced system where the rings, the motor oil, and the cylinder wall preparation are all designed to work together.”
Lake points out that what may have worked in the good old days will likely leave you eating your competitors’ dust today. Ten years ago a set of high-tension rings 0.043 of an inch thick for the first and second ring were standard fare, and so was heavy motor oil. Today, low tension rings only seven millimeters thick are quite popular, but if you are running the same oil you were 10 years ago you are robbing those new piston rings of some of their potential performance. Performance oil technology has advanced just like hard parts. It goes back to that balance Speed talks about. And if your engine isn’t balanced you are losing out on either power or durability.
“The old school 0.043 piston ring has a lot of tension, or pressure, against the cylinder wall,” Speed explains. “So you need a thicker oil to keep the piston ring from scraping all the oil off the cylinder wall. But with the newer seven-millimeter ring, you don’t have as much tension, so if you keep that same oil, all you are doing is making it more difficult for the piston and ring to move up and down the cylinder bore, costing you horsepower. Modern oils with better resistance to heat and improved lubrication qualities like those in Driven’s lineup allow you to run lighter-weight oil than ever before while also improving protection.
“The same thing is true for the other corners of our triangle,” he adds. “For example, you can try to cut some internal friction by making the cylinder walls smoother by taking away the depth of the grooves in the crosshatch. But if the cylinder bore is super smooth and flat and you don’t leave any valleys in there, you are going to have to use a thicker oil. It has to be more ‘clingy’ than normal, otherwise you won’t have enough oil remaining in the upper cylinder bore region to maintain good ring seal. Because you’ve gotten rid of the valleys in the crosshatch, there isn’t any place for the oil to hang on to, so now you have to raise the viscosity to make up for it. But increasing the viscosity raises the internal resistance in the engine. Not only is it tougher for the rings to move through that film of oil in the cylinder bore, but it also makes it more difficult for the oil pump to push the oil through the engine. So the result of trying to create super-smooth cylinder walls to cut friction can actually raise friction in other ways throughout the engine and wind up costing you horsepower.”
It turns out that the right combination of cylinder bore crosshatch and lightweight oil is even better for ring life than a smooth cylinder bore and thicker motor oil–so you can have the best of both worlds. The key to a good cylinder hone –one that allows oil to cling to the cylinder bores without causing unnecessary friction with the piston rings– is to cut “valleys” without any “ridges.” A good engine machinist will use a series of honing stones to cut the crosshatch into the bore and then go back with a finer stone and knock down any ridges the rougher stones created.
The idea is to make the engine run as efficiently as possible. There is only a finite amount of power in a drop of gasoline, but no one has ever been able to turn all of that chemical energy into mechanical energy. In fact, in an internal combustion engine, most of the energy is lost to heat and friction. The good news is that plenty of power can be found simply by helping an engine work more efficiently.
“A good ring seal is efficiency,” Speed says. “The fuel will make the power, all we have to worry about is getting that power to spin the crankshaft and not blow it down into the crankcase.”
Going back to the old school 0.043-inch thick rings, Speed points out that the formula to get this to work in a 350 cubic inch V8 with a 6,000 rpm redline making 400 horsepower is relatively simple. In a motor running 10W-30 motor oil, it is pretty easy to get the rings to seal up and run without issue. But there’s also plenty of power being lost to heavy components and friction between the rings and the cylinder bore.
“Now let’s take that same motor as a baseline and try to build a nine or ten thousand rpm race engine,” Speed adds. “Those 0.043 rings don’t work anymore because that’s too much mass we are trying to move up and down the cylinder. So the rings get smaller and lighter, and the piston has to lose mass too. That leaves less contact area between the rings and the piston’s ring lands to help hold those rings straight. The thinner ring also means there’s less area of contact between the outside edge of the ring and the cylinder wall. On the one hand that means less friction, but it also makes it harder to get a good seal.”
So you can see just a few of the challenges that come with trying to build a high horsepower engine. It’s a lot tougher to find that right balance of factors than it is with the 400 horsepower engine. If the 400 horsepower motor is walking down the sidewalk, finding the right balance for a 10,000 rpm race motor is walking a tightrope. Getting that extra power with the same displacement is possible by increasing the efficiency–race teams prove it every weekend–but because components have to move faster while weighing less and still maintaining the same cylinder sealing capabilities, the precision required ramps up as well. “Hey,” Speed adds, “it’s pretty hard to fall off the bottom of a mountain, but it’s awfully easy to fall off the top.”
And it’s not just the oil guy stressing the importance of finding the correct motor oil to match the rings and cylinder bore crosshatch. Keith Jones of Total Seal Piston Rings says proper oil selection is critical to helping the rings do their job.
“No matter how much you want it to be true, there is no single ring that’s the best for every situation,” he says. “Whenever I talk to a customer, my first questions are always, ‘What are you doing?’ and ‘What’s your application?’
“Take, for example, a twin turbo application,” Jones adds. “On a performance engine like that you can have cylinder pressures of several thousand PSI. But you have to remember that the cylinder pressure is trying to get behind the ring and push it right through that thin boundary layer of oil on the cylinder wall. If we choose an oil that’s too thin, that cylinder pressure is going to push the rings right through that boundary layer of oil and the rings are going to fail in no time. Too thick and you are wasting energy and causing other problems. You have to consider the cylinder wall to be a bearing surface just like the main and rod bearings because the ring has to be able to ride along the cylinder walls on a film of oil. You wouldn’t put a zero-weight motor oil in a Top Fuel engine because you know the rod bearings are going to come crashing right through that film of oil and into the crankshaft’s rod journal. It’s the same thing with the piston ring.”
When you pull out all the stops, it is actually quite amazing how precise modern machining methods can be when preparing a new block. Top-flight engine builders for NASCAR Cup teams and other professional racing organizations use equipment that allows them to be incredibly precise. The result: once the engine is fired for the first time, there is practically zero break-in required. That’s why you may hear that Cup teams break in their engines using the same synthetic oil that they race with. But just because they do it, that’s doesn’t mean it is necessarily a good idea for you and your new engine.
The equipment required–including diamond honing stones–to prepare a block to the NASCAR Cup level is incredibly expensive and simply out of the budget for most of us real-world folk. Instead, by using a quality break-in oil, you can protect the engine while helping the rings to seat as quickly as possible. Essentially, during those first few minutes of operation the engine finishes the final bit of machine work that Cup teams spend so many thousands of dollars to do themselves. The trick is to use a motor oil during the break-in process that helps the engine to break in quickly (seat rings, mate tappets to camlobes, etc.) while also providing optimum protection during what is a very stressful time for engine components.
“A lot of guys think that break-in oil is just about protecting a flat tappet valve train,” Speed says. “But our break-in oil is also formulated chemically to help a new engine seat the rings quickly without doing any damage to either the rings or the cylinder walls so that the engine winds up at the same place as the big-money race engine. There’s a lot more to our break-in oil than simply throwing in a lot of zinc to protect a flat tappet camshaft.”
One specific application where engine builders can often improve ring seal–resulting in both more power and longer engine life–is methanol burning race engines. Methanol is an alcohol and doesn’t have the same lubricating qualities as gasoline. In fact, methanol can actually be corrosive to metal surfaces, making it a tricky fuel to work with.
As a way of protecting themselves, engine builders working with methanol will often add a “top lube” or “upper cylinder lubricant” to the fuel itself. The idea is to help keep the upper portion of the cylinder walls from being washed clean of oil by the methanol by actually adding lubricant into the fuel itself. But this can cause more problems than it solves, Speed says.
In past decades a top lube may have been necessary, but modern motor oil formulations are more resistant to methanol and capable of properly protecting a methanol-burning engine. In fact, use of a top lube can actually harm the motor oil.
“Top lube is usually just two-cycle oil or something very similar to it,” Speed explains. “Since it mixes with the fuel, it can’t have additives in it, and it doesn’t lubricate as well as a good motor oil. But some of it will get blown past the rings and into the crank case where it mixes with the motor oil. Then it dilutes the oil as well as the additives in the oil so that it can no longer do its job as well. We’ve worked with engine builders before who have blamed us because they were seeing a lot of sludge in the bottom of the oil pan during teardown. We tested the sludge trying to find the problem and discovered that the motor oil didn’t contain any of the stuff that was making up the sludge. It was the top lube getting into the crankcase and turning into the damaging sludge.”
Speed also points out that top lube can also actually hurt ring seal. As we discussed earlier, the most critical moments for establishing great ring seal is when the engine is first fired up. In order for the rings to properly seat, there must be some friction to help the rings mate to the cylinder walls. That’s why a good break-in oil is designed to properly protect an engine while it breaks in without being too slippery. Adding a top lube to the fuel throws off that delicate balance established by the break-in oil to potentially greatly increase the amount of time required to seat the rings. Often, if the rings don’t seat quickly, the seal will never be as good as it could be.
“Your goal should always be to achieve maximum ring seal to make the engine as efficient as possible,” Speed explains. “So the best thing is not to use a top lube. If you are worried about corrosion from methanol, use Driven’s Carb Defender, which protects the fuel pump, carburetor or injectors without adding lubrication to the fuel. And then run a quality break-in oil which will protect the cylinder walls from scuffing and helps the engine finish the honing process so that the rings will seat very quickly. Don’t add any lubricity to the fuel or even the oil during the break-in process.”
The message we got from both Speed and Jones is that sometimes it can be tough to figure out exactly which oil–and ring package, for that matter–is right for your application from reading catalogs or the internet. But that doesn’t mean you are forced to rely on guesswork. The best manufacturers of both performance motor oil and engine components are constantly finding ways to improve engine efficiency and want to help you reap those benefits. So give them a call and get busy building your best engine yet.
Power AutoMedia, the parent company of industry leading automotive websites such as StreetLegalTV.com, Chevyhardcore.com and RodAuthority.com, just released a new video that takes an in-depth look at Driven Carb Defender and the growing problem of Ethanol Corrosion. Check out the video on our YouTube channel or view it in the player below.
- Fox News released an article showing the damage that Ethanol can cause to your vehicles. FoxNews.com.
- Here is another great article on the damage that Ethanol can cause. http://smarterfuelfuture.org/impacts/vehicles-and-small-engines?gclid=CKCZot6ytLgCFQ1gMgodhWYAbw
- Fill up on facts is another site warning consumers about the harmful effects of ethanol. http://fillupon