Tag Archives: Corrosion

Technology Makes Carb Defender Fuel Additive Different

This video takes a closer look at the technology that separates Driven Carb Defender from all other Ethanol fuel additives on the market. Carb Defender is specially formulated for the anti-corrosion needs of carbureted engines.

Watch: Driven Carb Defender Technology Explained

Other Driven Racing Oil videos are available on YouTube at www.youtube.com/DrivenRacingOil.

FAQs For Classic Vehicle And Street Rod Owners

1: How often should I change my oil?

Quite simply – it depends. This certainly isn’t the ideal answer, but it is the most honest one. Temperature plays a major role in the frequency of necessary oil change intervals. Every 20°F increase in oil temperature beyond 220°F shortens the life of the oil by 50%. This means cars that run very high oil temps will have much shorter oil life than cars that have moderate oil temperatures. Interestingly, the same also goes for low temps. It may be surprising, but low oil temperatures (below 180°F) can also shorten oil life. In fact, low 120°F oil temps pose greater risks to your engine than 260°F oil temperatures do. The reason is because low oil temps allow more moisture and fuel dilution to build up in your engine.

Street rods that see many miles of highway driving at moderate oil temperatures can expect to go up to 5,000 miles between oil changes.

Owners of street rods that only see short-trip driving should change their oil every 3,000 miles, or at least once a year. It is important to always change the oil in the fall before you put your street rod away for winter storage. You want to drain all the moisture, fuel dilution and used oil out of the engine before you stop driving for the season. Make sure the crankcase has been refilled with fresh oil, and then you are good to go when the weather warms up in the spring. The oil will not go bad just sitting in your crankcase over the winter.

2: Do I need break-in oil, and how long do you use break-in oil?

While every engine can benefit from break-in oil, it is a must for flat tappet camshaft engines. Even roller cam engines benefit from break-in oil because the piston rings still need to break in, and a better, faster ring break-in means more power and less fuel dilution in the motor oil.

Driven recommends changing the break-in oil after 30 minutes if you have a flat tappet engine. You will then need to refill with break-in oil for the next 500 miles. After both the initial break-in and 500 miles of driving, you can then use an oil made specifically for flat tappet engines.

For non-flat-tappet engines, we recommend running the break-in oil for 500 miles. After that time you can install whichever oil you prefer.

3: What viscosity oil should I run?

The “technical” answer is to use the lowest viscosity possible for the engine bearing clearances, oil temperature and horsepower output. Most people don’t know all of this information though, so the “practical” way to determine the correct viscosity is to do one of the following:

1—Run as low a viscosity as will yield 25 to 30 psi oil pressure at idle when the engine is warmed up. This is more oil pressure than the engine needs, but it is not excessive. Oil pressure is one of those areas where moderation rules. Too much or too little is not good. You need moderation in oil pressure to prevent engine damage.

2—Use  one viscosity grade lower synthetic oil than you currently run if you utilize conventional oil. This gives you the same high-temp protection as your conventional oil, but you gain all the benefits of a synthetic. For example, a street rod running conventional 20W-50 motor oil can safely switch to a synthetic 10W-40 and actually improve the protection of the engine.

4: Do I need to do anything special for winter storage?

Using an oil with storage protection additives is recommended. Some motor oils have extra rust and corrosion inhibitor additives that make them better suited for wintertime. Also, it is important to change the oil before you put your street rod away for the winter. You don’t want to store the engine on used motor oil. Fresh oil with extra corrosion inhibitors provides excellent winter storage.

5: Do I need to use a “high Zinc” oil after break-in?

You do if you have a flat tappet cam or very high valve spring pressures on a roller cam. Flat tappet and aggressive roller cam engines require higher levels of ZDDP than modern, stock engines from the factory. As a result, these engines need a steady diet of high Zinc oils.

We know this is a lot of information with lots of variables to take into account to protect your vehicle’s engine. Fortunately, Driven Racing Oil is a one-stop shop for everything from break-in oils to high Zinc motor oils with extra rust and corrosion inhibitors. We can provide everything you need to keep your muscle car or street rod engine running in peak form.

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Driven Racing Oil™ Carb Defender™ Race Concentrate

Huntersville, NC– Designed for carbureted engines that use Methanol, E85 or Oxygenated race fuel, Driven’s Carb Defender™Race Concentrate prevents corrosion and deposits in the fuel system and intake tract.

Driven’s Carb Defender Race Concentrate delivers specially formulated additives that protect against carburetor corrosion and induction deposits. Special corrosion inhibitors work to prevent damage and diminished performance caused by fuels containing Methanol and Ethanol, as well as the moisture these fuels attract. This powerful new additive controls combustion chamber residue, plus cleans and protects surfaces of the fuel system and intake tract. Carb Defender Race Concentrate also contains a multi-functional lubricant so “top lubes” are not required. Just one bottle of additive treats up to 55 gallons of fuel, and the bottle features a handy view strip to let users measure out doses for as little as five gallons of gas. Driven Racing Oil™ Carb Defender Race Concentrate works with Methanol, E85 and race fuels, and it is compatible with spec fuel and water tests.

 

Carb Defender™ Provides Critical Wintertime Storage Protection

Huntersville, NCDriven Carb Defender™ is an ultra-concentrated fuel additive that protects your car’s fuel system from damaging Ethanol corrosion during wintertime storage.

Before you put your hot rod in storage for the winter off-season, it’s crucial to make sure it has the correct protection so that it will be in proper running condition when it’s time to take it back out for cruising and show season. Designed for carbureted classic and performance vehicles, Driven Carb Defender™ will save you the hassle of costly post-storage repairs resulting from corrosion that happens at an accelerated pace over the winter due to temperature swings. Because it is specifically formulated to protect against Ethanol corrosion and induction deposits, Driven Carb Defender™ and its special corrosion inhibitors work to counteract the damaging moisture buildup resulting from the hygroscopic characteristics of Ethanol-blended fuel. Over the winter months, the Ethanol in your fuel tank absorbs moisture which if left unprotected will lead to rust, corrosion and other costly problems. In addition, this race-proven additive stabilizes the fuel as well as cleans existing deposits in the combustion chamber. With Driven Carb Defender™, you can rest assured that once it’s Spring and you’re ready to bring your hot rod back out on the  road, its performance will remain the same.

Effects Of Rust On Engine Durability

Rust is very harmful to engine durability in a variety of ways.  Most people think of rust as the typical brownish coloration (barnyard rust) often found on ferrous- containing (iron) components which have been exposed to the elements.  That is only one small part of the problem.

A more accurate term for what most people know as rust is corrosion.  Corrosion can exist in many forms, and one of those forms is barnyard rust.  Corrosion occurs any time a surface is left unprotected, and the metal on the surface is allowed to combine with oxygen (oxidation).  Oxygen in the air (or water) combines with the metal to form a fairly coarse abrasive material.

Rust occurs particularly quickly if an unprotected surface comes in contact with water and chlorine or sulfur.  The chlorine or sulfur combine with the water to form hydrochloric or sulfuric acid, and it quickly attacks the metal surface.  That’s why all good lube oil formulations are basic – to help prevent corrosive wear.  In modern day engines corrosive wear is usually more prevalent than abrasive wear.

Iron rust is abrasive, and it can play havoc with cylinder and valve train wear accelerating it by a factor of 2 or 3.  Highly stressed areas, such as push rod ends and valve springs are particularly susceptible.   But iron rust isn’t nearly as abrasive as aluminum corrosion.  (Aluminum oxide is used on grinding wheels.)  If aluminum corrosion gets into critical clearance areas such as cylinders or the valve train, it can actually cause engines to fail.

Rust inside an assembled engine or transmission can occur any time the oil is allowed to drain off a component due to infrequent use.  Engines which are operated daily or weekly seldom encounter this problem, but many street rods, muscle cars, and race cars are often stored for several months without being  turned over or fired up.  This is a recipe for rusting problems.

Water and low temperatures significantly increase the propensity to rust.  Engines fired up infrequently generate a tremendous amount of condensation.  If the engine isn’t allowed to completely warm up, this condensation remains inside the engine.  (Water will not burn off until the internal engine temperature (oil temperature) reaches 212 degrees F.)  This water will then attack any surface which isn’t adequately protected by either an oil film or a vapor phase rust inhibitor ( new tools which often contain a packet of vapor phase rust inhibitor to prevent rusting in shipping and storage).

The recent trend of using ethanol in gasoline fuels increases rusting tendencies significantly since alcohols have a tremendous affinity for water.  In other words, alcohol, whether it is ethanol or methanol, acts like a sponge to gather up any free water in the area.  Any unburned alcohol in your engine will soon be fully saturated with water.  That’s why racers never leave alcohol containers open to the atmosphere.  Open containers must be thrown away because they will contain significant water after only a brief period of time.

Military vehicles often sit unattended for extended periods.  The military lost so many engines due to rust problems that they came to the major specialty chemical (additive) manufacturers for a solution.  A 500-hour humidity cabinet rust test was developed to both accelerate and replicate the problems the military were experiencing in the field (even in desert climates).

Today the military demand that all engine oils supplied to them must pass the 500-hour humidity cabinet rust test.  When the Driven Hot Rod Oil was developed, street rodders requested protection against rust for vehicles which are often stored for months (even years).  Additive chemistry which allowed the Hot Rod Oils to pass the 500-hour humidity cabinet rust test was incorporated into all of the Driven Hot Rod Oils.

No other commercial engine oils on the market contain this chemistry.