Tag Archives: Protection

What’s In It? HR Conventional 10W-40 Hot Rod Motor Oil

In the factory performance glory days of the late 1960s and early 1970s, most car manufacturers recommended 10W-40 viscosity oil for Big and Small Block muscle car engines. Driven’s HR Conventional 10W-40 Hot Rod Motor Oil is the perfect choice for these classics, as it uses conventional petroleum base oils to provide excellent compatibility with “old school,” cork-and-rope seals. It treats cars with older engines the same way oils did when those immortal horsepower monsters rolled off the showroom floor. This oil is also designed with a secondary-style ZDDP which provides excellent wear protection for cams, lifters, rocker arms, distributor gears, pushrods, wrist pins and cylinder bores.
The oil features a 10W-40 multi-grade formula that provides for easier starting and less start-up wear than straight-grade or heavier-viscosity oils. It also includes the same anti-wear package that the U.S. military employs for storage and transport of combat vehicles and equipment. HR Conventional 10W-40 Oil features unique lubricant technology that prevents rust or corrosion caused by extended periods of storage – or by the use of Ethanol-blended fuels – making it perfect for classic American muscle cars that only see the street in ideal driving weather.

What’s In Driven’s HR 10W-40 Conventional Oil?



Petroleum Base Oils Provides fluid film to lubricate and cool the   engine components
ZDDP Provides anti-wear, corrosion and additional   anti-oxidation protection
Anti-Wear Additives Protects internal engine components from   adhesive wear due to metal-on-metal contact
Dispersants Suspends contaminants and combustion   by-products in the oil to allow them to be carried to the oil filter.   Prevents sludge formation.
Antioxidants Prevents the chemical breakdown of the oil
Friction Modifier Reduces friction between rubbing and sliding   parts
Corrosion Inhibitor Prevents rust and corrosion due to moisture   and acids that invade the engine from the fuel, combustion and atmosphere
Seal-Swell Agent Conditions the seal materials to prevent   leaks
Viscosity Index Improver Improves the viscosity characteristics of the   motor oil
Pour Point Depressant Allows the oil to flow and pump in cold   weather to reduce wear at start-up
Foam Inhibitor Reduces the tendency of the oil to foam


Driven Racing Oil™ Carb Defender™ Race Concentrate

Huntersville, NC– Designed for carbureted engines that use Methanol, E85 or Oxygenated race fuel, Driven’s Carb Defender™Race Concentrate prevents corrosion and deposits in the fuel system and intake tract.

Driven’s Carb Defender Race Concentrate delivers specially formulated additives that protect against carburetor corrosion and induction deposits. Special corrosion inhibitors work to prevent damage and diminished performance caused by fuels containing Methanol and Ethanol, as well as the moisture these fuels attract. This powerful new additive controls combustion chamber residue, plus cleans and protects surfaces of the fuel system and intake tract. Carb Defender Race Concentrate also contains a multi-functional lubricant so “top lubes” are not required. Just one bottle of additive treats up to 55 gallons of fuel, and the bottle features a handy view strip to let users measure out doses for as little as five gallons of gas. Driven Racing Oil™ Carb Defender Race Concentrate works with Methanol, E85 and race fuels, and it is compatible with spec fuel and water tests.


Three Critical Hot Rod Winterizing Tips From Driven

Get Ready For Winter

Three great tips to protect your car while it is stuck in storage for the winter

By Jeff Huneycutt

When whoever it was first uttered the words, “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure,” odds are they probably weren’t thinking about hot rods, muscle cars or classics. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t true for our favorite four-wheeled toys.

www.vipallica.deviantart.comPrevention is especially important for our prized hot rods because they can’t heal themselves. Sure, you can always replace a cracked windshield or repaint a scratched fender, but lots of components for older cars just aren’t available anymore and repairs cost time and money. We don’t know about ounces or pounds, but when it comes to cars prevention is always cheaper than repair, so perhaps the saying should be changed a bit. Maybe “a couple bucks spent on prevention is worth hundreds (or even thousands) in repairs.” There, that’s it.

This is definitely true when it comes to the damage that can occur to your car when it is allowed to sit for any extended period of time. And now that the seasons are changing and car enthusiasts in the northern half of the country are trying to enjoy their final few weekends before the white stuff starts falling, we thought we’d share a few great tips to help winterize your favorite car or truck. Heck, these winterizing tips are also great for your boat, motorcycle and RV.

Winterizing your car should involve just a little more than throwing a cover over the vehicle and locking the garage door. Thankfully, however, it really isn’t much tougher than that. The key to winterizing any vehicle is to keep the fluids it depends on from attacking it while it sits. That means you should deal with the fuel, the motor oil and the coolant before parking your car for the winter so that it runs just as well as you remember when you fire it back up next spring.

Motor Oil
“I hear people say all the time that they put fresh oil in their car when they pull it out after the winter, but that’s the wrong time to do it,” explains Driven Racing Oil’s Lake Speed Jr. “It is so much better for your car to have fresh oil in the engine when you put it away for the winter.

“Old oil that has been in your car for a while contains combustion by-products, and those aren’t good for your engine,” he continues. “That (oil) includes bits of carbon, fuel and water, and those contaminants create acids that corrode your engine during storage. The longer it is stored, the more opportunity the acid has to corrode your engine from the inside out.”

Obviously, the best way to keep any acid from forming and harming your engine’s internals is not to have those contaminants in the oil. That’s why you want to drain the old oil and replace it with fresh, clean oil right before you put the car away for the winter. Just make sure to run the engine for a few minutes after changing the oil to make sure you have that fresh oil inside all the engine’s oil galleries and not just sitting in the bottom of the pan.

111111The motor oil you choose can also help keep your car in a healthy state throughout the long winter months. Besides their excellent lubrication qualities, Driven’s Hot Rod Oils actually contain better rust inhibitors than any other widely available motor oil. The package Driven uses was originally developed for use by the U.S. military for its vehicles, which often have to sit for extended periods but still be ready for rapid deployment. When it is time for action, the Army doesn’t have time to do a bunch of engine rebuilds, so if this additive package can prevent rust over extended periods in some of the worst conditions imaginable, you can imagine the excellent job it will do with your Camaro.

In addition, Driven’s HR Oils also have more Zinc (or ZDDP) than most other oils. Zinc is primarily used to protect the mating surfaces between the camshaft and flat tappet lifters by creating a sacrificial barrier that keeps the metal components from grinding themselves up. But that barrier also blocks air and oxygen from getting to the metal and the oxidation process cannot begin to create damaging rust. Plus, even if most of the oil has drained back into the pan over the winter, that protective coating left by the zinc will help keep your valuable engine components from eating themselves up until the oil pump is able to push fresh oil everywhere it needs to be.

These days, practically all gasoline blends contain some percentage of Ethanol. Ethanol is a form of alcohol which can actually draw moisture out of the air and into the fuel. While a car is in storage, moisture can build up in the fuel and corrode the metal in the carburetor, fuel pump and tank. Plus, the alcohol can dry out gaskets, the fuel pump diaphragm and rubber fuel lines, causing them to break down and leak faster.

Driven Racing Oil’s Carb Defender is a new product designed specifically to fight the harmful characteristics of Ethanol. Unlike most other products on the market, Carb Defender doesn’t try to chemically change the fuel—which can affect performance—instead, it creates a microscopic coating on everything in the fuel system to keep both the Ethanol and moisture from being able to do any damage. Plus, Carb Defender lubricates all the non-metallic components to keep them from drying out and cracking.

Carb-Defender-single bottle-WebCarb Defender simply needs to be added to the fuel tank during a fill-up. It’s beneficial to any car when used on a regular basis, but it is also especially helpful as a winterizer. Just add a bottle to the last couple of tanks of fuel before the end of the driving season and your fuel system is protected all winter long. Read More About Ethanol Corrosion

In addition to using Carb Defender, you can also limit the amount of moisture that builds up in your fuel over the winter by storing your car with the tank completely topped off. This may seem counter-intuitive at first, but it works. By filling your tank absolutely full, that pushes out any air in the tank. The fuel tank is vented, so there is no way to completely get rid of contact with the atmosphere, but since the fuel is all the way up to the filler tube that means the fuel’s contact area with the atmosphere is a couple of square inches, instead of two or three square feet when the tank is only half full.

Have you ever wondered where all that sludge comes from when you drain the coolant from an engine block or radiator that’s been in there a little too long?

It’s from the water that you put into the radiator (usually in a 50/50 ratio with antifreeze) to protect your engine from overheating. That may be shocking to hear, especially since you probably drink water from the same tap that you used to fill your coolant system. But the sludge isn’t in your water, it is the product of a chemical reaction between minerals like calcium, sodium and magnesium that are common in tap water, and the metal in your engine block. Over time the chemical reaction creates not only that tell-tale sludge buildup, but also damaging corrosion inside the block that cannot be repaired.

50030“The purity and quality of water varies massively,” Speed says. “When you have dissimilar metals in the water and the engine block, it can create corrosion. That’s why we created CSP, which stands for Coolant System Protector, to protect cars from this problem. CSP uses a chemical called a chelant which basically functions as molecular police. The chelant bonds with the metals in the water, rendering them inert, or basically handcuffing them so that they cannot be the conductors for corrosion.”

Running CSP year round is a good idea, but if you are currently only running a blend of antifreeze and water it isn’t too late. Even if you don’t have the time, or the energy, to drain and flush your coolant system before putting your car away for the winter, just add a bottle of CSP and run the engine for a few minutes to thoroughly mix it with the coolant. Read Coolant System Tech Bulletin

Complete Protection
By looking after these three areas and spending a few bucks on Driven products to protect your car or truck, you can save big money on repair bills down the road. And just as important, you can sleep easy knowing your car will run as well as it ever has after a long winter in storage. Now if there was only a way to keep dead bugs from sticking to your bumper and making their own polka-dot art, all of mankind’s greatest car problems would be solved.

Buy Driven CSP (Coolant System Protector)

Buy Driven Carb Defender Fuel Additive

Buy Driven HR Oils (Conventional & Synthetic)

Carb Defender™ Provides Critical Wintertime Storage Protection

Huntersville, NCDriven Carb Defender™ is an ultra-concentrated fuel additive that protects your car’s fuel system from damaging Ethanol corrosion during wintertime storage.

Before you put your hot rod in storage for the winter off-season, it’s crucial to make sure it has the correct protection so that it will be in proper running condition when it’s time to take it back out for cruising and show season. Designed for carbureted classic and performance vehicles, Driven Carb Defender™ will save you the hassle of costly post-storage repairs resulting from corrosion that happens at an accelerated pace over the winter due to temperature swings. Because it is specifically formulated to protect against Ethanol corrosion and induction deposits, Driven Carb Defender™ and its special corrosion inhibitors work to counteract the damaging moisture buildup resulting from the hygroscopic characteristics of Ethanol-blended fuel. Over the winter months, the Ethanol in your fuel tank absorbs moisture which if left unprotected will lead to rust, corrosion and other costly problems. In addition, this race-proven additive stabilizes the fuel as well as cleans existing deposits in the combustion chamber. With Driven Carb Defender™, you can rest assured that once it’s Spring and you’re ready to bring your hot rod back out on the  road, its performance will remain the same.

Carb Defender Is The Bodyguard For Your Carburetor

Modern fuel blends containing ethanol are eating classic cars from the inside out. Here’s what you can do to protect yours.

By Jeff Huneycutt

Like they say, “It’s the things you don’t see that you’ve got to watch out for.”

Sort of like when you are buying a new car and then get hit with all the fees the salesman never mentioned until you are signing the paperwork. That’s sort of what is happening with the fuel you use.

A few years ago, when ethanol began being blended with gasoline, we were told how it’s good for the environment, how it helps reduce our dependence on foreign oil and how it will benefit the American farmer. After all, in the U.S. ethanol is created from corn, and what could be better than corn, right?

But ethanol also has some very serious drawbacks that weren’t mentioned at the time. Namely, ethanol is hygroscopic, which is just a fancy term meaning that it attracts water. Ethanol exposed to the atmosphere will actually pull the moisture from the air and attach to it. Having water in your fuel system is bad enough on its own since it is pretty useful at putting out fires instead of helping combustion, but it gets worse. The water and ethanol are actually corrosive to many metals and actively harm components in the typical fuel system. That’s why many auto manufacturers now build and market cars and trucks as “Flex Fuel” vehicles. That doesn’t just mean that they can burn E15 and E85 ethanol-blended fuels—practically any vehicle can do that—it means that the manufacturer has taken extra steps to protect the fuel system from the harmful effects of ethanol.

So is ethanol really that damaging? Yes! Consider that most of the gasoline used in the United States is delivered to terminals through pipelines. But the ethanol isn’t blended into the fuel until later. That’s because the ethanol is so damaging that the pipeline companies won’t allow it into their equipment. They simply don’t want the ethanol eating away their pipes from the inside out.

The same corrosi20130524_195322on that damages fuel pipelines happens in your hot rod, classic car and even your daily driver if it was built before 2007 or so. The water and ethanol reacts to both aluminum and zinc, two of the primary components in the alloy carburetors are made from, to eat away the material and leave behind white scaly deposits. Those deposits create the perfect trifecta of bad: loss of performance, fuel mileage and reliability.

To make things worse, the damage taking place happens unseen inside the fuel system, hidden from you. And the rate of corrosion can also vary depending on a few factors. The big one is how much ethanol is in your fuel. Obviously, E85 (85-percent ethanol) fuel will corrode your fuel system faster than E10 (10-percent ethanol), but neither is good. And it looks like the percentage of ethanol used in the gasoline you can buy will only be going up. Recently, the United States Supreme Court denied a motion to force the EPA to hold off on bringing E15 to market because it isn’t being properly labeled so that consumers can avoid it. And none other than the American Automobile Association (AAA) says studies have shown that even vehicles rated as E15 compliant can be damaged by the high ethanol content in the fuel. In fact, AAA is warning its members that under no circumstances should they try to use E15 in boats, planes, motorcycles, small engines and older cars because it is so damaging. Unfortunately, it may soon become quite difficult to purchase gasoline that doesn’t have high levels of ethanol.

The second major factor regarding rate of corrosion is how long the car is allowed to sit. Believe it or not, ethanol isn’t as damaging to a daily driver as it is to a car that is only driven occasionally and allowed to sit for long periods. It’s that prolonged contact that can really do the damage. Knowing all this, it’s easy to see that classics, hot rods and other older cars that are normally only driven on weekends and during nice weather are most susceptible to the perils of ethanol. And a car allowed to sit over the winter is especially at risk. Ethanol-blended fuels are also particularly tough on marine, or boat engines, small engines like lawn mowers and power generators, and motorcycle engines.

Since ethanol began showing up in fuels, a multitude of quick fixes have popped up claiming to cure the problems ethanol creates. All you have to do is make a trip to your closest auto parts store to see the incredible variety of products now on the market. Almost every single one, however, claims to work by changing the fuel, either by somehow “removing water” or as a “fuel stabilizer.” The problem with this method is that by changing the fuel to achieve one goal, the additive may also change it in other ways that you cannot know. The fuel’s octane may be moved either up or down the scale, the vapor pressure may change, the idle may get rough, or any number of things might change that affect the way the fuel burns. This normally isn’t an issue for your average weed whacker or low-RPM grocery getter, but it can harm the performance of a highly tuned engine. Any additive that changes the chemistry of the fuel can affect the proper tune-up for the engine in ways that are very difficult—or even impossible—to predict.

Understanding this, Driven Racing Oil™ has found an alternative solution to the problem. Driven’s history is in racing, and not just the NASCAR Cup Series. Driven also has extensive experience racing with Sprint Car and Modified teams running methanol alcohol as the fuel, and for years those teams have dealt with the same issues hot rodders are now seeing with ethanol. Driven’s chemists and engineers know what works and what doesn’t, and its solution to the ethanol issue is a great departure from the rank-and-file products already on the shelves. Driven Racing Oil’s new Carb Defender additive doesn’t affect the fuel but instead creates a sacrificial barrier between the carburetor (and other fuel system components) and the ethanol.

“We’re racers and engine builders,” explains Driven’s Lake Speed Jr., “so we understand the need for protecting an engine’s performance. When we set about looking for a solution to help engines with ethanol corrosion, we looked to find the right balance. We wanted to provide superior protection without affecting the fuel. Our answer with Carb Defender is actually to create a metal deactivator. The molecules in our additive have what you might call a preference for aluminum, zinc and other materials. It creates a chemical barrier that keeps the fuel from oxidizing with the metal and protects your fuel system without affecting performance.”

Speed says Driven’s research shows that for hot rods or older cars driven fairly regularly, Carb Defender needs to be added to the fuel only every other fill-up or so. But even for a car that’s only driven irregularly, maybe on nice weekends or to the occasional car show, adding a bottle of Carb Defender each time you hit the pumps will still be able to provide proper protection. The tiny 4.5 ounce bottle is highly concentrated so it can treat a 25 gallon tank without diluting the fuel. It also works as a cleaner to dissolve and break up oxidation deposits; just mix one bottle for every eight gallons for the first tank and then bring the treatment back down to normal levels.

“At Driven, our primary business is high performance motor oils, and we’re pretty successful at it,” Speed says. “We saw the ethanol problem from being involved in motorsports ourselves and also from engine builders we work with. If we thought that there was a viable product already available to help with the problem we would have simply told people, ‘Hey, use this.’ But there just wasn’t anything that we thought worked to the standard we thought it should. So that’s why we are producing Carb Defender. Like racers and hot rodders, we’re engine guys first, so we looked for the molecule that fit the problem. Unlike a lot of chemical companies, we didn’t start out with a prized chemical and then look around trying to find a market for it.”

But Speed is also quick to simage_2ay that because Carb Defender is designed specifically not to affect the fuel, it also won’t cure an excessive buildup of water drawn into the fuel because of the ethanol. “This is a phenomenon known as ‘phase separation’ which happens when the ethanol draws enough moisture from the air that the water actually separates from the fuel,” he explains.

“Phase separation is most likely to happen in situations where there is lots of humidity in the air, when the fuel and air temperature is warm, or when there is a lot of surface area for the air and fuel to meet. So if you are driving around on a warm day in an area where it’s humid and with a half tank of fuel, that’s when the fuel is drawing the most moisture. You park the car with the half- tank so there is a lot of the fuel’s surface area exposed to air in the tank, and that ethanol really starts pulling in the moisture. Then when the fuel cools—just like air—it can’t hold the moisture as well as when it is warm and it falls out of suspension as drops of water. Water is heavier than gasoline so it gathers in the bottom of your tank, which is exactly where your fuel pump pickup is located.”

Imagine how hard it is on your engine when you hit the starter and the first thing it gets is a shot of water instead of fuel. If you’ve ever put your car into storage for the winter running great and then had trouble getting it to start the next spring, you may have been a victim of phase separation. The good news is Speed says the best cure for phase separation is mechanical, not chemical. So you can do it yourself rather than spending your hard-earned money on more product. The key is to limit any opportunities ethanol-blended fuel may have to interact with air.

Since most of us don’t have easy access to ethanol-free fuel, we have two real-world options for eliminating phase separation and the problems that come with it. One option is to always drive the car until the fuel tank is empty, or drain the fuel tank every time you store your car. Then, put in fresh fuel when you are ready to drive again. This, obviously, isn’t realistic so we’ll scratch that one and move on to option two.

This time around, instead of running the car out of fuel before storage, top the tank off on your way home so that it is absolutely full of fuel when you park it. A fuel tank must be vented, so you can’t totally cut off access to the atmosphere, but by filling the tank to the top you move the contact area for air and fuel to interact up from the fuel tank to the filler neck, severely limiting the opportunity for ethanol to pull moisture from the air. Since you have to buy fuel anyway, the fix doesn’t cost anything, and combined with Carb Defender you can allow your car, boat, motorcycle or anything else to sit all winter if necessary and still have confidence that it is fully protected from harmful ethanol. And when you do bring it back out of storage, it will run just as well as the day you parked it. That’s the Driven advantage.

Learn More About Carb Defender™

Carb-Defender-multi bottle_Web

Why Use Driven Racing Oil?

Driven Racing Oil, born from Joe Gibbs Racing, is formulated specifically for all-out race and high performance engines. What makes our products different? In simple terms, our products are unique because we always put the “Motor ahead of the Molecule”. While other oil companies are in love with chemistry and have no real world understanding of how the products are actually used, Driven keeps things in the proper order. The oil is for the motor, not the other way around. Our product development team looks at the motor and how it is used; then we design application specific products using a “zero compromise” approach that delivers a measurable performance advantage.

A recent camshaft company Technical Bulletin said it best, “Today’s engine oil is just not the same as it used to be, thanks to the ever tightening environmental regulations.” Today’s passenger car motor oils are formulated to be compatible with your street car’s emission control equipment, and Federal EPA requirements have led to a reduction in formulated anti-wear chemistries like Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur in API rated engine oils. As a result, the oil you buy today is not the same as it was 10 years ago. While this is good for your street car, it is bad news for your racing engine.

As stated in the book Lubrication Fundamentals,”In heavily loaded applications, flat tappet cam followers operate on partial oil films at least part of the time. Lubricants with anti-wear additives are necessary if rapid wear and surface distress are to be avoided. The oil additive Zinc Dithiophosphate is to provide anti-wear activity for the camshaft and lifters.”

Racing engines see more RPM, higher loads and increased temperatures compared to street engines, so a racing engine requires higher levels of Zinc, Phosphorus, Sulfur and other additives to prevent premature part failure. This is especially true in flat-tappet engines.

Driven Racing Oil contains all of the correct additives, like Zinc, Phosphorus and Sulfur in addition to the highest quality base oils to protect your engine.

Racing Oils vs. Street Oil

Again, the book Lubrication Fundamentals sums this up, “Loading on the rubbing surfaces in the valve train may be high, particularly in high speed engines, where stiff valve springs must be used to ensure that the valves close rapidly and positively. This loading can result in lubrication failure unless special care is taken in the formulation of the lubricant.” Simply put, the oil used in an engine needs to be formulated specifically for that type of engine. You wouldn’t use a stock piston in a race engine, and the same goes for oil.

Our NASCAR championship winning formula protects our 9,000 RPM, Flat-Tappet engines for over 500 miles of competition, and our oils are used by other championship winning engine builders to conquer the grueling 24 hours of Daytona and the Baja 1000. We offer a variety of oil viscosities to fit various engine builds and operating temps.

We also offer Driven Hot Rod Oil for street driven flat-tappet and push-rod engines. Driven Hot Rod Oil features high levels of Zinc for wear protection plus US Military spec rust and corrosion inhibitors to protect the engine when it is not running as well. No other oil provides this type of protection in the garage and on the road.


Resources To Learn More About Driven Racing Oil:

Browse Our Products

Video: History Of Driven Racing Oil

Article: Driven Racing Oil Is Designed To Excel 

Frequently Asked Questions

Print Catalog

Application Guide

Dealer Locator